
3K 




Complete 
Guide to 
Millinery 

of The Kintzel 
Millinery School 

By 
Mrs. Margaret Kintzbl 

and 
Mrs. Mary M. Lunt 



COMPLETE 

GUIDE TO MILLINERY 

of 
KINTZEL MILLINERY SCHOOL 



By 

Mrs. Margaret Kintzel 

and 

Mrs. Mary M. Lunt 



Copyright. 1915, by Mrs. Mary M. Lunt 






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MAR 23 I9IS 



S'CI.A42!)23K 

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Contents 



PAGE 

Stitches used in millinery 5 

To cover a large hat 5 

To wire a buckram frame 5 

To case a wire 5-6 

To cut a pattern 6 

To cut and put on the top covering 6 

To cut and put on a facing 7 

To put on a top crown 7 

To cut and put in a lining 7 

To cut, make and put in a bandeau 8 

To cut and make a three-quarter bandeau 8 

To make an all-round bandeau 8 

To put on a side crown 8-9 

To draw a lining 9 

To make an open crown Princess evening hat 9 

To cut, make and cover a Princess ring frame 9-10 

To cut, make and put on a twisted crown 10 

To put on wrinkled sides 10-1 1 

To make and put on Princess loops 11 

One way of trimming the Princess hat 1 1-12 

To make a fancy bicycle hat 12-13 

To make a little girl's fancy Tam O'Shanter hat 13-14 

To cut and make a shirred hat 14-15 

To put on a spring binding 16 

To make a rope twist 16 

To put on a plain binding 16 

Correct method of cutting velvet on the bias 16-17 

To cut and make a plain fold 17 

To cut and make a French fold 17 

To put on a French fold 17 

To cut, make and put on a plain Tam O'Shanter crown 17-18 

To make a fancy Tam O'Shanter crown 18-19 

To put a puff on a hat 19 

To make a plain Belvidere 19 

To cover an oval crowned toque 20 

To put a fulled brim on a toque 20 

To cover a plain round turban 20-2 1 

To make a straw, chenille or ribbon crown 21 

To make a straw braid crown 21 

To make a fancy straw braid crown 21-22 

Draped crowns 22 

To make a fancy crown for a lace hat 22 

To cover a wire 22-23 

To put on a covered wire 23 

To make a net or chiffon hat 23-24 

To make the crown 24 

To bind the wires of a wire frame 24 

To wind the wires 24 

To double wind 25 

To flute lace on a wire frame 25 

To tuck shirr lace on a wire frame 25-26 

To put chiffon or net on a wire frame with a ruched edge 26 

To cover a wire frame with lace 26-27 

To cover a wire frame with lace double 27 

To cover a wire frame with chiffon, plain 27-28 

To cover a bonnet plain 28 

To line a bonnet 28 

To make a net bonnet 29 

To make a chiffon rose quilling 29 

To make a rose quilted facing 29 

To make a shirred horse shoe bonnet 30 

To make a lace bonnet, toque shape 30-31 

To put a puff on the edge of a bonnet 31 

To hem velvet 31 

To make a lace wing 31 

To hem crepe or silk plain , 31 

To make a binding hem ', .'. 32 

To make a fancy crepe hem \ 32 

To hem a crepe veil '. 32 

To make a lace aigrette 32 

To put net or chiffon on a wire frame and bead it 32-33 

To make velvet underneath trimming 33 

To drape a veil (plain drape) 33 



CONTENTS — CONTINUED 

PAGE 

To form a box drape 33-34 

To form a finger puff drape 34 

To drape a veil over the face 34 

Some bu3iness suggestions ] 34 

To make wrapped underneath trimming 35 

To make chiffon underneath trimming 35 

To sew a silk wire on the edge of a felt hat .......'. 35 

To sew a silk wire on a felt hat not on the edge 35 

To put a silk wire on a straw hat 36 

Most popular ruche 36 

Bows [36-37 

To wire ribbon 37 

To make wrapped trimming 37 

To make a wrapped Alsatian bow 37-38 

The rosette bow 38 

To make a wrapped butterfly bow 38 

To make a wrapped chiffon rosette 38 

Flower bows 3g 

The bonnet bow 39 

The chrysanthemum bow 39 

The water wheel bow 39 

The Alsatian bow 40 

To use folds 40 

To make rosettes , 40 

Directions for making puff rosettes 40-41 

Tailored rosettes 41 

To make a plain rosette 41 

To make a box pleated rosette 41 

To make a rose rosette 41 

To make a double rosette 41-42 

To make a hollyhock rosette 42 

To make choux 42 

To make a lace jabot 42 

To make a rose quilling of lace 42 

To combine colors 43 

Tinting 43 

Feathers 44 

Flowers and foliage 44 

Veilings 44 

Combinations of colors 44-45 

White and black 45 

Colors 45 

Colors for a brunette 45 

Rules for the blonde woman 45-46 

Recipes 46-47 

Miscellaneous 47 

To remove axle grease stain 47 

Gold and silver trimmings 48 

To clean braids 48 

Cleaning lace goods 48 

To clean white lace 48 

To dye lace 48 

Silk laces 49 

Washable laces 49 

To steam velvet 49 

To bleach a leghorn hat 49 

To press ribbon that has been used 49 

To wash silk ribbon 49-50 

Treating crepe 50 

Steaming crepe SO 

To steam crepe 50 

To mirroir velvet 50 

Plush goods 50 

Coffee stains 51 

To clean wings 51 

Cleaning hats 51 

Steaming hats, etc 52 

To clean a white felt hat 52 

Cleaning a white velours hat 52 

To renovate hats 52 

To press hats 52 

To freshen black raoire ribbon 52 

To whiten feathers 53 

To clean white plume 53 

White and light colored feathers 53 

The art of keeping clothes dean 53-54 



Stitches Used in Millinery 

The running stitch is used for all shirrings. The slip stitch 
is used for making folds and putting on milliner's folds and bind- 
ing. The cat stitch is used for hemming velvet. The overcast 
stitch is used for joining the upper and lower portion of the brim 
of a hat when the same is to be covered with an edging. The 
button hole stitch is used for putting in lining and sewing satin 
covered wire on the edge of ribbons. The cross stitch may be 
used for the same purpose. The back stitch is used for sewing 
ribbons or silks together. 

To Cover a Large Hat 

First. Wire the buckram frame. 

Second. Case the wire. 

Third. Cut the pattern. 

Fourth. Cut and put on the top covering. 

Fifth. Cut and put on the facing. 

Sixth. Put on the top crown. 

Seventh. Put in the lining. 

Eighth. Cut, make, cover and put in the bandeau. 

Ninth. Put on the side crown. 

Tenth. Draw the lining. 

To Wire a Buckram Frame 

All common buckram frames have a wire on the outside edge- 
of the brim, which is covered with tissue paper and pasted on. 
This wire is liable to come off in the handling of the frame. It is 
necessary, therefore, to sew on the common cotton wire, right over 
the paper covered wire, with an over and over stitch. Begin at 
the back and see that you keep your wire right on the edge of your 
frame. 

Let no portion of it be under or on top of the brim. 

Allow two inches of wire more than you need, lap it and 
finish off neatly on top of the brim. 

To Case a Wire 

Cut a bias strip of lining material the color of your frame. 

One inch wide. 

Long enough to go around the outside edge of your brim. 

Fold it over your wire. 

Stretch it so that it will not make ruffles. 



Sew it on, up and down stitch. 

(An up and down stitch is not a back stitch.) 

All careful milHners case their wires. 



To Cut a Pattern 

Pin a piece of paper around the facing of your frame. 

To the casing which you have just put on. 

Have the paper large enough, so that it will extend beyond 
the edge of your frame. 

Cut your paper so that it will be one-half inch wider than 
your frame all around. 

Now rub your thumb around the paper just where the crown 
touches it. 

Cut out a circle, leaving the paper extend one inch inside of 
the crown. 

Slash this inch all around to within a sixteenth of an inch 
of the crown. 

Put a marking pin in the front of the frame. 

Also one in the paper pattern. 



To Cut and Put on the Top Covering 

Lay the paper pattern on your material, so that it will be 
on the bias. 

Pin it all around. the outside edge. 

Put a few pins in the center. 

Cut exactly like the pattern, all around the outside edge, 
the inside circle and each slash, just as you have it in the pattern. 

Put a marking pin in your material, just where the marking 
pin is in the pattern. 

Take out all of the pins except the markers. 

Slip your material over the crown, on the top of your brim, 
so that the markers will both be in the same place. 

Pin this top all around the outside edge of the brim to the 
casing. 

Turn your hat bottom side up and sew the top material to 
the buckram facing. 

Take one stitch in the buckram and one stitch in the material, 
over and over. 

Sew the slashes to the side crown. 

Long and short stitch. 

The short stitch is a back stitch. 

Do not get this stitch mixed up with the up and down stitch. 

If any of your stitches have come through on the edge of the 
top material, rip them out and sew over again. 

See that you do not draw the top material too tight for the 
frame; it will bulge if you do. 



To Cut and Put on a Facing 

Lay your paper pattern (the same that you used for cutting 
the top) on the material so that it will be on the bias. 

Pin around the outside edge. 

Cut around the outside edge only. 

The inside crown is never cut until the facing is on the hat. 

Put your marking pin in its place. 

Take out all of the pins except the marker. 

Pin on the facing smoothly. 

Turn in the edge and pin again. 

When you have all smoothly pinned around, without pleats, 
slip stitch the edge, so that no stitch is seen anywhere. 

Cut out the inside crown circle exactly as you did in the 
paper pattern. 

Slash the inch. 

Sew the slashes to the inside side crown, long stitch inside, 
just as you sewed the slashes to the outside side crown. 

The facing must be perfectly smooth, without pleats or 
wrinkles. 

To Put on a Top Crown 

Pin a piece of your material on to the top crown, so that it 
will be on the bias. 

Stretch smoothly while you pin. 

Sew it on to the side crown, about one-fourth of an inch 
below the edge of the crown. 

Long stitch on the outside. 

Do not sew more than one-fourth of an inch below the edge 
of the crown. 

If you do, you will have pleats that are not wanted. 

Cut your material off close to your stitches. 

Be careful that you do not cut the stitches. 

To Cut and Put in a Lining 

Cut a piece of lining material, lengthwise of your goods five 
to eight inches wide, according to depth of crown, and long enough 
to measure twice lengthwise and once crosswise of your crown. 

Sew the lining in. 

Long stitch on the lining. 

See that all stitches, cuts in the slashes, etc., are hidden. 

Turn in the ends where you begin, and finish the lining and 
slip stitch them together. 

Turn in the top edge of your lining. 

Run a tuck one-fourth of an inch wide for a casing to hold 
the narrow ribbon with which you draw the lining after you 
have your hat entirely finished. 



To Cut, Make and Put in a Bandeau 

Cut a piece of buckram crescent shape. 

One inch wide in the center and tapering to one-half inch 
at the sides. 

Long enough to get halfway around your inside crown. 

Wire this piece of buckram all around with cotton wire. 

Allow two inches of the wire to lap. 

Over and over stitches. 

Lay the bandeau on your material. 

Cut two pieces one-half inch wider than the bandeau all 
around. 

Cover one side of the bandeau by drawing the edges of the 
covering together, over and over. 

Draw in the ends smoothly. 

Cover the other side by pinning the other piece around smoothly. 

Turn in all of the edges. 

Slip stitch neatly all around. 

This will make a half bandeau. 

Place your bandeau into your side crown wherever fashion 
decrees that it shall be. 

Sew it in. Short stitch inside. 

To Cut and Make a Three-quarter Bandeau 

Cut the buckram crescent shape, like the half bandeau, but 
make it long enough to go three-fourths around the inside crown. 
Wire, cover, finish and put in just like the half bandeau. 

To Make an All-round Bandeau 

Cut a straight piece of buckram three-fourths of an inch 
wide and long enough to fit snugly into your inside crown. 

Sew the ends together to form a ring. 

Wire this ring top and bottom. 

Allow two inches of wire to lap. 

Cut a bias strip of your covering material two and one-half 
inches wide and long enough to go around the ring. 

Fold this piece around the ring. 

Turn in the edges. 

Sew the edges together over and over, fine. 

Lap the finishing end over the beginning end. 

Turn in the raw edge and finish neatly. 

To Put on a Side Crown 

Cut a bias strip of. your material one inch wider than the 
side crown is high. 

8 



Turn in the lower edge of this strip. 

Tack the end to that part of your side crown where the trim- 
ming will hide the seam. 

A tack is a stitch up and down three or four times in one 
place. 

After you have placed your first tack, stretch your strip 
tightly around the bottom of your side crown. 

Keep the lower edge of your strip turned in. 

When you get past your first tack, tack again. 

Turn in the upper edge of your strip even with the crown. 
Sew long stitch on the outside where your ends join. 

One end of the side crown must lap over the other. 

Cut ofif your surplus material close to the stitches. 

To Draw a Lining 

Thread a bodkin with narrow ribbon (baby ribbon), run it 
through the casing of your lining. 

Draw this ribbon until your lining fits the inside crown. 

Tie the ribbon together, and then tie a neat little bow, two 
loops and two ends. 

Cut off what ribbon you do not need, and notch the ends 
of the bow. 

Do not draw your lining too tight for the crown. 

Leave room for the hair. 

The lining should never be drawn until you have trimmed 
your hat. 

To Make an Open Crown Princess Evening Hat 

First. Cut the frame and sew the points. 

Second. Wire the frame. 

Third. Cut the cover for the frame and put it on. 

Fourth. Cut the material for the crown and trimming. 

Fifth. Hem this material. 

Sixth. Put on the twisted crown. 

Seventh. Put on the wrinkled sides. 

Eighth. Make and put on the Princess bows. 

To Cut, Make and Cover a Princess Ring Frame. 

Cut a straight strip of buckram. 

One inch wide and eighteen inches long. 

Cut the ends of this strip slanting, so that they will form a 
point when sewed together. 

Up and down stitch. 

This will be the back of the ring. 

Cut a slit in the front one-half inch long. 

Fold over the ends of the slit and tack, so that your ring 
will also have a pointed appearance in front. 

Do not seam all the way down like the back. 



Begin one inch from the back and wire, first the top and then 
the bottom of the ring. 

Lap your wires two inches. 

Cut a bias strip of material two inches wide and long enough 
to go around the ring and one inch over. 

Begin at the back, fold the material around the ring, so that 
the raw edges will be on the outside of the ring. 

Draw together over and over stitches. 

Keep the inside smooth, as this will be the lining of your 
hat. 

At the points, it will be necessary to pleat slightly. 

Turn in the end of your strip, lap it over the end you began 
with, as far as it will go. 

Draw together tightly there, so that the folded end will stay 
down without any more stitches. 

To Cut, Make and Put on a Twisted Crown 

Cut two bias strips of your material. 

Five inches wide and eight inches long. 

Hem, velvet hem, if your material is velvet, plain crepe; no 
hem required if you use ribbon or ribbon velvet. 

Gather each short end of these two strips very coarse gathers, 
draw tightly and tack. 

Sew one gathered end of one strip to the outside covering of 
your frame. 

About two inches from the back point and about three- 
fourths of an inch below the upper edge of your ring. 

Sew the other gathered end of this strip to the other side of 
your ring, also two inches from the back point and three-fourths 
of an inch below the upper edge of your ring. 

Sew one gathered end of the remaining strip to the outside 
covering of your ring, two inches from the front point. 

Draw the remaining gathered end through the loop which you 
have at the back, twist, so that all of the crown will be right side up. 

Sew this gathered end to the other side of your ring two inches 
from the front point. 

To Put on Wrinkled Sides 

Cut two bias strips of material five inches wide and eight 
inches long. 

Hem with the hem that suits the material. 

Gather all of the short ends, coarse gathers, draw tightly 
and tack. 

Sew one gathered end of one strip to the outside covering 
of your ring one inch from the back point, over and over stitch. 

Stretch your strip tightly over the outside of your ring, give 
it a wrinkled look (not pleated) and sew to the outside covering 
of your ring as near the front point as it will come. 

10 



Sew the remaining strip in the same manner to the opposite side 
of your ring. 

It is not necessary to have the wrinkled sides to cover the 
points. 

The Princess loops are sewed there and will hide all deficiencies. 

To Make and Put on Princess Loops 

Cut two bias strips of your material five inches wide and 
thirty-six inches long. 

Hem both sides of these strips suitably. 

Measure off a space in the middle of one strip the width of 
a buckle and mark with pins just where the ends of the buckle 
would be. 

Divide what you have left at each side into three parts. 

Mark each division with a pin. 

Gather and tack one short end of this strip (coarse gathers), 
but do not clip your thread. 

Begin on the side where your thread now is and gather across 
where your next pin is. 

Draw and single tack. 

To single tack is to tack the end of what you have just gathered. 

You will find that you now have a loop which is open at one 
end and closed at the other. 

Tack the open ends of the loop together. 

Gather, draw and single tack where your next pin is. 

You will now have two loops closed at one end and one open 
loop. 

Lay the loops one on top of the other and tack the two loops 
together, closing the open side of your last loop. 

Gather, draw and single tack where your next pin is. 

Tack the three loops together. 

Make three loops on the other side of your strip like the ones 
you have just finished. 

Pin the center of your space to the front point of your frame. 

Arrange the loops gracefully and sew to the outside covering 
of the frame. 

Make your other strip into loops in the same manner and sew 
across the back. 

Stretch the space portions tightly around the points and 
tack. 

One Way. of Trimming the Princess Hat 

This hat may be made to look very stylish by sewing a 
standing bunch of very small tips behind the loops at the left side 
of the front. 

Sew a handsome buckle just over the space in front. 

Sew a bunch of violets or other small flowers between the 
first and second loops at the front. 

Make two lace fans. 

11 



Sew one lace fan to each side of the back, so that the lace 
will fall on the hair. 

Sew a bunch of flowers into the space at the back. 

This hat may be made of velvet, silk, fancy crepe, ribbon 
or ribbon velvet, or any other material suitable for evening wear. 

It is strictly an evening hat. 

It takes one yard of material to make this hat if not made of 
ribbon. 

Three and one-half yards of ribbon will make it. 

To Make a Fancy Bicycle Hat 

Make and cover a Princess ring. 

Lay this ring upside down on your material and cut a crown. 

Make it one inch wider all around than the ring. 

Mark the back and front of this crown. 

Gather one row plain, close to the edge. 

Turn the crown over your ring and sew it around to the out- 
side covering of the ring. 

Place back to back and front to front and have your gathers 
even. 

Do not allow the raw edge of the crown to extend below the 
bottom of the ring. 

Cut a bias piece of material eleven and one-half inches wide 
and long enough to go twice around the ring. 

Mark the center of the longest piece without a seam with 
two pins for the front. 

Mark the back with one pin. 

Begin at the back. 

Turn in one edge and gather one row to form a one-half inch 
heading. 

Slip this brim over the crown. 

Allow the heading to extend below the bottom of the ring. 

Pin back to back and front to front. 

Even the gathers. 

Sew the heading on with a running stitch to the outside 
covering of the ring. 

Run a row of gathers, fine, about one inch above the heading 
gathers. 

Draw to fit the upper edge of the ring. 

Tie the drawing thread together and knot securely. 

Gather your remaining edge, plain gathers. 

Push this edge down behind your second row of gathers. 

Pin all around on the outside. 

Do not give this brim a twisted or bias look. 

If you find that you have given it a twisted appearance, 
remove your pins and pin over again until you get it right. 

Sew your second row of gathers to the outside covering of 
the ring. 

This will also hold your third row. 

12 



Hide your two visible rows of stitches by slip stitching fancy 
cord, braid or French folds around each row, beginning at the 
left side. 

Make a butterfly bow and sew it on the left side. 

Stick a fancy pin through the center of this bow, giving it 
the appearance of a butterfly stuck on a pin. 

Stick another fancy pin right in front. 

This hat may be made of velvet, cloth, silk, satin, duck, 
flannel, etc. 

It may be trimmed with quills, small tips, aigrettes, fur 
heads, rosettes, etc. 

To Make a Little Girl's Fancy Tarn O'Shanter Hat 

Cut, make and cover a Princess ring. 

Cut a bias strip of material four and one-half inches wide 
and long enough to go twice around your ring. 

Join the seams and form a ring, 

Mark the back with one pin. 

Begin at the back and gather one side plain. 

Slip this gathered row over your ring. 

Pin back to back and front to front. 

Even the gathers and sew to the outside covering of the ring, 
running stitch. 

Do not let the raw edge extend below the bottom of the 
ring. 

Gather the other side, very coarse gathers. 

Draw tightly together and tack. 

Sew a small jet or braid crown or a tiny rosette on where 
the crown is drawn together to hide the raw edges. 

Cut a bias strip of material nine inches wide and long enough 
to go twice around the ring. 

Join the seams and form a ring. 

Mark the center of the longest piece without a seam with 
two pins for the front. 

Mark the back with one pin. 

Turn in one side and gather one row to form a half inch 
heading. 

Slip this heading over your crown. 

Pin back to back and front to front. 

Even the gathers. 

Sew around to the outside covering of the ring, running 
stitch. 

Allow the heading to extend below the bottom of the ring. 

Put one row of gathers, fine, about one inch above the heading 



row. 



Draw to fit the upper edge of the ring. 

Tie the gathering threads together and knot securely. 

Gather the remaining raw edge, plain. 

Push it down behind your second row of gathers. 

Pin all around on the outside. 



13 



Do not get this brim twisted in any way. 

If you find that you have given it a twisted or bias look, 
remove your pins and pin over again until you have it right. 

Sew around to the outside covering of the ring, running 
stitch. 

Sew trimming around with invisible stitches to hide your 
two visible rows of gathers. 

Passementerie, fancy braid, fur trimming, silk cord, etc., 
may be used. 

Begin and end your trimming at the left side. 

Trim with standing quills or a small ostrich tip and a rosette 
to hide the ends of your standing trimming. 

It takes one yard of material to make this hat. 

Velvet, silk, cloth, duck, flannel, etc., may be used. 

To Cut and Make a Shirred Hat 

Measure with a tape line, from the center of your top crown, 
down over the outside side crown, over the widest part of your 
top brim, over the facing, and over the inside side crown, up the 
inner edge of the top crown. 

Cut a piece of your material as wide as the measure you 
have taken and long enough to go twice around the outside edge 
of the brim. 

Do not stretch your material while measuring. 

Join the seams and form a ring. 

(If your material is very thin, like chiffon or net, let your 
strip be long enough to go three times around the outside brim 
edge; if velvet, one and three-quarter times around the brim 
edge. 

Put the raw edges together and fold your ring double. 

Mark the center of the longest piece without a seam with 
two pins, for the front. 

Mark the back with one pin. 

Have your thread or silk, which must be the color of your 
material, at least eight inches longer than the outside edge of your 
brim. A double thread for gathering can always be had by 
measuring eight times across the widest part of the hat. 

Begin at the back and gather one row, very fine, one-half 
inch below where you folded your material, to form a heading. 

This row gathers the material double. 

Open out the material and gather the next row one-fourth of 
an inch below your first row single. 

Begin at the back always. 

Gather the next row one inch below the second row. 

Gather the next two rows so that they will be one-sixteenth 
of an inch apart and one-sixteenth of an inch below the third 
row. 

This will be the facing. 

14 



Begin at the other side and gather the first row, one inch 
below the heading row single. 

Gather the next two rows so they will be one-sixteenth of 
an inch apart and one-sixteenth of an inch below your first row. 

This will go on the top brim. 

Slip your material on the frame so that the little heading 
will be on the outside edge of the brim. 

(Have a casing around your outside brim wire, before you 
put your material on the frame.) 

Pin back to back and front to front. 

Even the gathers of your heading and pin all around to the 
casing around the outside brim wire of your frame. 

Do not draw any but the heading thread. 

Sew the heading to the casing so that the stitches will not 
be seen. 

Tie the ends of your heading thread together and knot securely. 

Draw each thread on the facing separately, tie and knot. 

Begin at the front and form the loose material of the facing 
into tiny pleats, all turning the same way. 

Pin each pleat to the inside side crown. 

Sew around, long stitch inside. 

Do not give these pleats a twisted or bias look; they should 
run straight with the hat. 

Draw, tie and knot each gathering thread separately on the 
top brim. 

Make a row of gathers, fine, to fit into the bottom of your 
side crown groove. 

Draw, tie and knot this thread. 

Sew all around, short stitch on top. 

Gather the raw edge of your top material. 

Arrange it around the top crown so that the side crown will 
be slightly puffed. 

Sew around, long stitches on top. 

Cut a bias strip of your material six inches wide and long 
enough to go twice around the edge of your top crown. 

Join the seams and form a ring. 

Turn in one side and gather to form a half inch heading, very 
coarse gathers. 

Arrange the fine gathered heading around the outside edge 
of your top crown. 

Allow the heading to extend beyond the edge. 

Sew around, short stitch on top. 

Draw the coarse gathered heading together tightly to form 
a rosette. 

Sew to the center of the top crown. 

Do not get your top crown twisted when you sew on this 
rosette. 

It takes two yards of material to make this hat. 

15 



To Put on a Spring Binding 

Cut a bias strip two and one-half inches wide and long enough 
to go around the outside edge of your brim. 

Hem one side of this strip, velvet hem. 

Lay it on the facing of your hat, wrong side up. 

Have the raw edge next to the outside edge of the brim. 

Begin at the back and sew around, long stitch on top. 

Stretch slightly (not too much) as you go along. 

Spring the hemmed side of this binding up over the edge of 
your brim and make a neat join at the back. 

If this binding is not cut strictly on the bias, it will wTinkle. 

If you take a very accurate measure of your brim edge, and 
cut your binding one inch shorter than your measure, you can 
join all of the seams, form a ring, then sew around and spring. 

To Make a Rope Twist 

Cut a bias strip of material five inches wide and as long as 
you want it to be. 

Hem both sides of this strip, velvet hem. 

Fold so that the hems will come together. 

Hold one end tightly in your left hand. 

Twist with your right hand until your strip looks like a rope. 

A rope twist may be made without hemming it, but it is apt 
to show raw edges unless very skillfully twisted. 

To Put on a Plain Binding 

Cut a bias strip of material as wide as you want your binding 
to be. 

Not less than an inch and a half nor more than two and a 
half inches. 

Long enough to go around the outside edge of whatever you 
are going to bind. 

Lay this strip, wrong side up, on the top brim, close to the 
edge. 

Sew around, long stitch on top. 

Turn it over occasionally to see if you are not getting it 
too tight. 

Turn your binding over the edge, turn in the raw edge and 
slip stitch. 

Make a neat joining at the back. 

If this binding is not cut strictly on the bias, it will wrinkle. 

Correct Method of Cutting Velvet on the Bias 

Place the velvet with the right side, or nap, face up on the 
table, the nap running smoothly to the right. Take the velvet 
up by the corner, folding selvage at the right angle on the velvet 
so that the line is straight, the folded edge will be a true bias, and 

16 



if this rule is followed the velvet stock may be kept in good shape, 
with no waste necessary to straighten the bias. 

To Cut and Make a Plain Fold 

Cut a bias strip of material one and one-fourth inches wide 
and as long as you require it to be. 

Turn in both sides of this strip so that the raw edges will 
meet in the center, but do not lap. 

Cat stitch just like you do a velvet hem. 

Do not have stitches showing on the right side of the fold. 

To Cut and Make a French Fold 

Cut a bias strip of material as wide as you want your fold 
to be. 

Not less than one inch nor more than three inches. 

As long as you require it to be. 

Turn in both edges of your strip, put the turned in edges 
together to form a fold. 

Let the narrow part of this fold be one-third and the wide 
part two-thirds of the width of the fold. 

Slip stitch so that no stitches will be seen anywhere. 

The side which shows the folds is the right side. 

The narrow part is always the top of a French fold. 

To Put on a French Fold 

Sew a wire to that part of your hat where you want the fold 
to be. 

Slip stitch it on, just above the wire. 

The fold must cover the wire. 

Stretch as you sew. 

It is not necessary to make this fold before you put it on. 

It can be made and put on at the same time. 

To Cut, Make and Put on a Plain Tarn 
O'Shanter Crown 

Fold one-half of a newspaper in half, then in quarters, then 
in eighths. 

Measure from the point up eight inches on one side and mark 
with a pin. 

Measure from the point up eight inches on other side and 
mark with a pin. 

Cut across where the pins are. 

Unfold and you will have a circle sixteen inches in diameter. 

Pin this circle on your material and cut. 

Mark the back and front. 

Begin at the back and gather around one row plain. 

17 



Slip this crown over your hat crown, place back to back and 
front to front. 

Even the gathers and sew, long stitch on top. 

Cut a bias strip of your material three inches wide and long 
enough to go around your side crown. 

Make a French fold of this strip, tack one end of it to the 
left side. 

See that you have the folded side outside and the narrow 
part of the fold on top. 

Stretch tightly around your side crown. 

Carefully cover all raw edges. 

Lap half an inch over your first tack and tack again. 

If you have a very low crowned hat, and want your Tarn to 
stand high, run a second row of gathers even with the edge of 
your top crown. 

Draw to fit, tie your gathering thread and knot securely. 

To Make a Fancy Tain O'Shanter Crown 

Cut your material the same as for a plain Tam O'Shanter 
crown. 

Fold your crown in half and run a tuck one-fourth of an 
inch wide all the way across. 

After you have made one tuck, fold your crown for another 
tuck one-half inch from your first tuck. 

Run the second tuck. 

Fold your crown again for a third tuck one-half of an inch 
from your second tuck. 

Run the third tuck. 

Do not put back stitches into your tucks, as they will have 
to be drawn after you have put wires in. 

Cut off three pieces of wire, long enough to go over the top 
crown and both sides of your side crown and half an inch over. 

Push one wire through each tuck. 

Bend up a little hook on each end of each wire and draw the 
tuck threads to fit the wires. 

Put a plain row of gathers around the outside edge of the 
Tam. 

Slip it over your hat crown. 
Arrange it so that the widest part of the Tam will be on the 
left side. 

The wires must be lengthwise of the crown. 

Draw your last gathering thread to fit the bottom of your 
side crown. 

Even the gathers and sew around, long stitch on top. 

Cut a bias strip of your material five inches wide and long 
enough to go around the side crown. 

Hem both sides, velvet hem. 

Fold so that the hemmed sides will come together. 

Hold one end tightly in your left hand. 

Twist with your right hand until your strip looks like a rope. 



Tack to the left side, stretch tightly around, keeping it twisted 
and fasten the other end. 

Hide all raw edges with this rope twist. 



To Put a Puff on a Hat 

Cut a bias strip of material as wide as you want your puff 
to be. 

Never less than two inches nor more than four and a half inches. 

Long enough to go twice around the outside edge of your 
brim if this material is of medium thickness, three times around 
if your material is heavy, like velvet. 

Join the seams and form a ring. 

Mark the center of the longest piece without a seam with 
two pins, for the front. 

Mark the back with one pin. 

Begin at the back and gather one row plain. 

Place your gathered edge on the edge of your top brim, wrong 
side up. 

Pin back to back and front to front. 

Even the gathers. 

Sew around, long stitch on top. 

Begin at the back and gather the other side of your puff, 
plain gathers. 

Turn the puff over the edge of the brim. 

Turn in the gathered edge and pin all around to your facing. 

Slip stitch to the facing. 

Allow your puff to extend a little beyond the edge of your 
brim, and be careful not to give it a twisted or bias look. 



To Make a Plain Belvidere 

Lay a Belvidere pattern on a lengthwise fold of your goods 
and cut double. 

Turn your Belvidere wrong side out. 

Begin at the bottom and sew up to the point, running stitch. 

Turn your Belvidere right side out. 

Push a wire up to the point. 

Tack this wire at the bottom, near the center. 

Turn the two outside edges in until they meet in the center 
and tack. 

Turn what are now your outside edges in again until they meet 
in the center, and tack again. 

This will give you a leaf shaped standing trimming, which 
can be used on all kinds of hats or bonnets. 

Never use more than two Belvideres on any one hat or bonnet. 

If you wish to combine two colors in a Belvidere, you must 
cut one piece of each color exactly like the pattern. 

19 



To Cover an Oval Crowned Toque 

Stretch a bias piece of your material over your crown length- 
wise and pin, then crosswise and pin. 

Sew around long stitch on top. 

Stretch gradually as you go, to avoid pleats. 

Cut a bias strip of your material four inches wide and long 
enough to go around your crown. 

Form a point. 

Pin and stretch again lengthwise. 

Form another point opposite your first one. 

Tack at the points. 

Have the plain part of your top crown, between the folds, at 
least three inches at the widest part (center of the crown). 

To Put a Fulled Brim on a Toque 

Cut a bias strip of material wide enough to cover your brim 
inside and outside and long enough to go twice around the outside 
edge of the brim. 

Join the scams and form a ring. 

Mark the center of the longest piece without a seam with 
two pins for the front. 

Mark the back with one pin. 

Begin at the back and gather one row, plain. 

Arrange and sew this gathered side to the inside of your brim, 
long stitch on the gathers. 

Turn this puff over the brim and pleat it into the inside 
side crown. 

Allow it to puff slightly. 

Sew around long stitch on the pleats. 

To Cover a Plain Round Turban 

Pin a bias piece of material around the edge of the top crown 
smoothly. 

Sew around, one-fourth of an inch from the edge of the crown, 
long stitch on top. 

Trim off your material close to the stitches, but do not cut 
the stitches. 

Cut a bias strip of material wide enough to cover the entire 
brim and long enough to go around the outside edge of the brim. 

Begin at the back and sew this strip to the inside brim, long 
stitch on top. 

Turn your material over the brim. 

See that it fits smoothly. 

Sew to the inside of the side crown, long stitch inside. 

Finish off neatly at the back. 

Put on a plain side crown, a twist of velvet folds, or any 
decoration you may desire for the side crown. 

20 



If the brim of your turban is very much rolled, you had better 
put on a puffed brim. 

If you have a wide brimmed turban, the pattern must be cut 
just like for a large hat and put on in the same manner. 

To Make a Straw, Chenille or Ribbon Crown 

Narrow flat straw braid, not more than one-fourth of an inch 
wide. 

Rope chenille, baby ribbon, or any kind of material that 
comes not more than one-fourth of an inch wide and that has 
both sides alike, can be used for this purpose. 

A wire frame is always used. 

Begin at the center of the top crown. 

Slip your material through and tie in a knot. 

It is best to cut your material into strings two yards long, 
and then piece them together again where necessary. 

Wind your material around each cross wire until you have 
the top crown completely covered. 

It must look like basket work. 

Keep on winding around each cross wire, carefully covering 
the wire which goes around the edge of the top crown. 

Also the wires which go around the side crown. 

Fasten the end securely. 

This makes a nice crown for lace, net or chiffon hats. 

Entire hats and bonnets may be covered in this manner. 

To Make a Straw Braid Crown 

Take fancy straw braid, any width, and make six pleats in 
one end of it, deep enough so that when drawn together the scalloped 
edge of the braid will form a circle tack. 

Keep on sewing the braid around, short stitch on top. 

Put in a pleat occasionally until you have enough made to 
cover your top crown. 

See that you always have the scalloped edge on top. 

Sew this top crown to the top crown of your wire frame. 

Sew the braid around until you have covered your side crown. 

This must be done on the hat. 

Let your side crown be long enough, so that the last row 
of scallops will lie on the brim, around the bottom of the side crown. 

This crown may be used for lace, chiffon or net hats or for 
any hat having a wire crown. 

Fancy felt braid, chenille or jet may be made into a crown 
in the same manner. 

To Make a Fancy Straw Braid Crown 

Use fancy straw braid one and a half inches wide. 
Make a box pleating (three pleats on each side) long enough 
to go around the outside wire of your top crown. 

21 



Sew this pleating to the outside wire" of your top crown, cut 
off and fasten the end securely. 

Make a top crown out of your braid. 

Sew on the top crown so that the scalloped edge of this 
crown will cover the plain edge of your pleating, cut and fasten 
the end securely. 

Begin at the back and make your side crown. 

This must be done on the hat. 

Let the scalloped edge of your side crown lie on the brim 
close to the bottom of the side crown. 

Cut and fasten the end. 

If the crown is very high, another row of box pleats may 
be put around the bottom of the side crown. 

Draped Crowns 

One of the smartest draped crowns may be made as follows: 
Three-fourths yard of velvet on the bias, rounding ofi the 
short corners. The top crown is plain, using one end of velvet, 
tacking into position over crown. The beauty of draping is to 
have the broken lines. Commence by plaiting velvet into five 
folds. At a quarter distance around crown break into four folds, 
and about the next quarter break into six folds. This produces more 
graceful effects. 

Avoid tight folds. Have the tacking inside. The finished 
crown must have no marks of manipulation, but have the appear- 
ance of being made by fairy fingers. 

To Make a Fancy Crown for a Lace Hat 

Sew on a jet crown, large enough to cover your top crown. 

Take a piece of lace three inches and a half wide and long 
enough to go twice around the crown. 

Join the seam and form a ring. 

Mark the back and front with pins. 

Gather the plain edge, fine gathers. 

Sew this edge to the bottom of the side crown. 

Sew on a narrow jet edging to hide your stitches. 

Flute the scalloped edge of your lace to the top wire of your 
side crown. 

Have the flutes standing straight. 

Do not give your side crown a puffed appearance. 

A gilded top crown, cream colored lace side crown and gilt 
scale trimming around the bottom of the side crown may also 
be used. 

Use stiff lace. 

To Cover a Wire 

Cut a bias strip of material one inch wide. 
Make a plain fold out of it. 

22 



Lay your wire in the center of the fold. 

Sew the edges of the fold together with very fine over and 
over stitches. 

Stretch your fold slightly as you sew. 

To Put on a Covered Wire 

Begin at the back, and make one up and down stitch in your 
hat to hold the knot in your thread. 

Slip your needle through the covering of your wire and make 
an up stitch. 

Make a small down stitch. 

Make an up stitch one-half inch from your down stitch. 

Make a small down stitch (back stitch). 

Slip your needle behind your wire, and take your wire up 
with the next stitch. Sew this way all around. 

The stitches you make along your hat and the stitches you 
made in covering your wire must all be hidden by the wire. 

Use thread silk the same color as your hat to sew on the 
wire. 

Use silk thread the color of your covering when you cover 
the wire. 

To Make a Net or Chiffon Hat 

Cut a straight strip of material two and a half inches wider 
than twice the width of the widest part of your brim and long 
enough to go three times around the outside brim wire of your 
frame. 

Join the seams and form a ring. 

Fold lengthwise. 

Run a gathering thread so that you will have a half inch 
heading. 

Run another gathering one-fourth of an inch below your 
first gathering. 

This will form a casing for a wire. 

If the wire you are going to use is very heavy, this casing 
will have to be wider. 

Push a silk wire the color of your material through the casing 
you have just made. 

Have the wire two inches longer than your outside brim 
wire. 

Arrange your heading around your outside brim wire and 
sew over and over^ the wrong side of the casing to the outside 
brim wire. 

Turn your material right side out and crease, and run a tuck, 
one-fourth of an inch wide, just where the second brim wire goes 
around. 

Run one of these tucks on the top and one on the bottom 
material. 

Push a silk wire through each of these tucks. 

23 



Turn back your material and sew over and over the wrong 
side of both of the casings you have just made to the second brim 
wire. 

The threads with which you have run the casings should 
be drawn after you have pushed your wires through them. 

Draw up your top and bottom material and gather both 
materials together one-fourth of an inch above the crown wire. 

Draw your thread, tie and knot securely, trim ofif your surplus 
material. 

To Make the Crown 

Cut a strip of material wide enough to cover the top and 
side crown and long enough to go three times around the side crown. 

Join the seams to form a ring. 

Turn in one side and run a tuck one-fourth of an inch wide. 

Push a wire through this tuck to fit the lower wire of the side 
crown. 

Draw your thread. 

Arrange this wire around the bottom of the side crown, sew 
around, but do not let your stitches be seen. 

Turn in the other side of the crown one-fourth of an inch, 
gather over and over, very coarse gathers. 

Draw together tightly. Sew to the center of the top crown. 

Push your needle up, take one gather on the point of it and 
go down with it, fasten securely. 

To Bind the Wires of a Wire Frame 

Cut a bias strip of material one-half inch wide and long enough 
to go around as many wires as you want to bind. 

Make a plain fold out of this strip. 

Begin at the back, let the outside brim wire lie in the center 
of the fold and draw the edges of the fold together with very 
fine over and over stitches. 

Use silk thread the color of your binding. 

Bind all of the brim wires except the crown wire. 

Use velvet, satin or silk for binding. 

To Wind the Wires 

Cut a bias strip of material one inch wide. 
Begin at the back, tack one end of your strip to the back 
cross wire. 

Turn in one side one-fourth of an inch. 

Leave the other side raw edge. 

Wind around your wire to the right. 

The side that is turned in must always cover your raw edge. 

Slant as you go. 

Wind all of the brim wires except the crown wire. 

Use velvet, satin or silk for winding. 

Jet or filosel may also be used. 

24 



To Double Wind 

After you have wound all of your brim wires with velvet, 
take silk or gilt cord or any narrow fancy braid and wind again, 
very evenly and very much on the slant. 

To Flute Lace on a Wire Frame 

Bind or wind the brim wires of your frame. 

Do not cover the crown wire. 

Take lace as wide as the widest part of your brim and long 
enough to go twice around the outside brim wire. 

Begin at the back and pin one scallop of your lace to the 
outside brim wire, allowing it to extend a little over the edge. 

Lay the little finger of your left hand on the binding close 
to the pin. 

Let the lace come around your little finger and pin again. 

This forms one flute. 

Flute all around the outside brim only. 

After you have pinned your flutes all around, tack where 
you put your first pin, slip your needle through the binding over 
the next pin and tack again. 

Tack all around. 

Use silk the color of your lace. 

Slip stitch the ends of your lace together. 

Gather your lace at the top so that your row of gathers will 
come one-fourth of an inch below your crown wire. 

Turn your hat bottom side up and sew the lace to the crown 
wire. 

Let the thread come over the wire and catch a stitch in the 
lace, between each flute, just where you gathered. 

This should draw each flute into position and keep it there. 

Give your flutes a firm appearance and do not get them 
bias. 

Cut off your surplus lace close to the crown wire. 

To Tuck Shirr Lace on a Wire Frame 

Take a piece of lace half an inch wider than the widest part 
of your brim and long enough to go twice around your outside 
brim wire. 

Turn in the scalloped edge one inch. 

Run a very small tuck just below where you have creased 
your turn in. 

Turn up your scalloped edge again. 

Draw your thread to fit your outside brim wire. 

Your frame must be bound or wound before you put this 
lace on. 

Pin your lace around the outside brim wire. 

Keep your tuck on top of this wire. 

Even the gathers. 

25 



Sew around in and out at each side of the tuck. 
Hide your stitches among the gathers. 
SHp stitch the ends of your lace together at the back. 
Gather the top of the lace so that your row of gathers will 
be even with the crown wire. 

Turn your hat bottom side up. 
Sew the gathers to the crown wire over and over. 
Do not give your lace a twisted or bias look. 
Cut off your surplus lace even with the crown. 

To Put Chiffon or Net on a Wire Frame with 
a Ruched Edge 

Bind or wind your wires or sew straw braid to the wires under- 
neath. 

Cut a straight piece of chiffon or net three inches wider than 
the widest part of your brim and long enough to go three times 
around the outside brim wire. 

Join the seams and form a ring. 

Mark the center of the longest piece without a seam with two 
pins for the front. 

Mark the back with one pin. 

Fold in and crease one side half an inch from the edge. 

Fold again one and a half inches (three-fourths of an inch 
when doubled). 

Hold all of your creases together and gather over and over. 

Only one row of gathers is used, but it holds all of the ruche. 

Begin at the back and arrange this ruche on to your outside 
brim wire. 

Even the gathers and pin all around. 

Sew around to the covering of your outside brim wire, so 
that the stitches will not show. 

Run a row of gathers in the top of your material, even with 
the crown wire. 

Sew to the crown wire over and over underneath. 

Trim off your surplus material close to the crown wire. 

To Cover a Wire Frame with Lace 

Do not bind or wind the wires. 

Take a piece of lace two inches wider than the widest part 
of your brim and long enough to go twice around your outside 
brim wire. 

Begin at the back. 

Hold the lace in your left hand. 

Lay the outside brim wire of your frame one-half inch in 
from the scalloped edge. 

Take a stitch in your lace on one side of the wire and one 
in the lace on the other side of the wire, over and over. 

Draw the lace together so that the wire will be covered with 
lace. 

26 



Draw your thread as you go, so that you will have a little 
scalloped heading ruffle extending beyond the edge of your brim. 

Slip stitch your ends together. 

Cover all of the brim wires, the crown wire included in the 
same way. 

If your cross wires show, draw the lace together over the 
cross wires and tack here and there. 

Lace which is nearly the same on both sides should be used. 

Use silk thread the color of your lace. 

Your wire frame should be as near the color of your lace as 
you can get it. 

To Cover a Wire Frame with Lace Double 

Do not bind or wind the wires. 

Use very sheer lace as wide as the widest part of your brim 
and long enough to go three times around the outside brim wire. 

Cut your lace so that you will have two pieces of equal length. 

Lay it together so that the scallops will be even. 

Have top and bottom of your lace, right side out. 

Mark back and front. 

Sew your seams together at the back. 

Run a gathering thread one-half inch from the scalloped edge. 

Open out your lace and slip your frame in. 

Even your gathers and pin just back of the outside brim 
wire. 

Draw, tie and knot your gathering thread securely. 

Draw up the lace on both sides of your frame and gather 
one-fourth of an inch above the crown wire together. 

Take out the pins around the edge of the brim. 

Cut off your surplus lace close to the crown wire. 

Use silk thread the color of your lace. 

Have your wire frame as near the color of your lace as you 
can get it. 

To Cover a Wire Frame with Chiffon Plain 

Cut a paper pattern the same as you do on a buckram frame. 

Cut the top and bottom material the same. 

Slip the top over the crown. 

Turn the slashes over the crown, wire and sew up and down 
stitch. 

Cut off the points of these slashes close to your stitches. 

Turn the outside edge of the top over the outside brim wire 
and sew up and down stitch. 

Cut off the raw edge close to your stitches. 

Pin on the facing smoothly. 

Turn the outside edge of the facing over the outside brim 
wire and sew up and down stitch. 

Cut off the raw edges close to your stitches. 

27 



Cut out the inside ciixle, leaving an inch in the crown. 

Slash this inch. 

Turn the slashes over the crown wire and sew up and down 
stitches. 

Cut off the points of the slashes close to your stitches. 

Sew some straw braid to the outside brim wire, so that the 
braid will be underneath. 

Sew a jet edging over the wire on top of the straw braid. 

Put on a fancy straw braid crown. 

Fancy figured chifTon is generally used for this kind of a 
hat. 

To Cover a Bonnet Plain 

Pin a bias piece of your material around the edge of the crown. 

Stretch tightly and sew around, long stitch on top. 

The crown must be smoothly covered without pleats. 

Cut off what material you do not need close to your stitches. 

Cut a bias strip of your material wide enough to cover the 
brim, outside and inside, and long enough to go around the front 
edge of the bonnet. 

Stretch this strip over the brim smoothly. 

Sew long stitch on top. 

Turn in the ends to fit the bonnet and slip stitch them. 

Cover the sides of your bonnet with narrow cut folds, finishing 
with a small French fold. 

Turn under what raw edge you may have at the back of the 
bonnet. 

Line the bonnet. 

To Line a Bonnet 

Cut a straight strip of lining material five inches wide and 
long enough to go around the brim. 

Lay the bonnet on your lap, upside down. 

Lay the lining into your bonnet wrong side up. 

Let one inch of lining extend beyond the bonnet. 

Sew your lining in, long over and over stitch, catching the 
lining to the facing of the brim only. 

Let an inch of lining extend at the other side. 

Run a casing in your lining to hold a narrow ribbon. 

Turn in the lining along the bottom of the back and slip 
stitch across. 

Thread a bodkin, with your draw ribbon run it through your 
casing, leaving one and a half inches of casing at each side with- 
out any ribbon. 

Draw the ribbon so the lining will fit the bonnet comfortably. 

Tie your ribbon in a small bow. 

Cut off what ribbon you do not need and notch the ends 
of your bow. 

28 



To Make a Net Bonnet 

Sew a piece of straw braid firmly to tlie outside edge of the 
brim wire. 

The braid must be under the wire. 

Cut a straight piece of net three inches wider than your 
bonnet is long and long enough to go three times around the out- 
side brim wire. 

Fold your net so that you will have three tucks, one on top 
of the other. 

Gather these tucks over and over. 

Use only one row of gathers. 

Form a ruche. 

Sew this ruche around on top of your straw braid. 

Slip your stitches through so that they will not show. 

One inch from the ruche run another half inch tuck. 

Draw to fit the brim and tack here and there to keep it in 
position. 

At the back pleat your net into fine pleats very close together. 

Turn the pleats so that they meet in the center of the back. 

Turn under and sew short stitch on top. 

Slip your short stitches under the pleats so that they will 
not show. 

The back of this bonnet should look like a shell. 

To Make a Chiffon Rose Quilling 

Cut a straight strip of material five inches wide. 
Fold it so that the raw edges will meet in the center. 
Cat stitch like you do a plain fold. 
Make the same as a rose quilling of lace. 

To Make a Rose Quilted Facing 

Cut a straight strip of material two inches wider than the 
widest part of your brim. 

Turn in one inch on one side. 

Box pleat (four small pleats on a side). 

Tack these pleats one inch from the edge. 

Sew the pleating around the edge of the brim. 

Run a row of gathers about one inch from where you tacked 
your pleats. 

Run another row half an inch from the first row. 

Draw both rows and tie and knot them at the back. 

Pleat the rest of the material into your side crown. 

Sew around long stitch inside. 

Pull down the centers of your box pleat and tack each center. 

These facings should be made of chiffon, muslin de soie, net 
or malline. 

Never use heavy material. 

29 



To Make a Shirred Horse Shoe Bonnet 

Use very thin material. 

Use a plain horse shoe frame. 

Cut a strip of material twice as wide as your bonnet is long 
and long enough to go three times around the front of the bonnet. 

Turn in one side two and a half inches and crease. 

Run a tuck one-fourth of an inch wide all along the crease, 
leaving one inch on each side without a tuck. 

Run a second tuck one inch from your first tuck. 

Run a third tuck one inch from your second tuck. 

Push a silk wire the color of your material through each tuck. 

Let the longest wire be just long enough to form the outside 
edge of a pretty horse shoe for the back of the bonnet. 

See that this longest wire goes through the last tuck you 
made. 

The second wire should be shorter than the first. 

The third should be shorter than the second. 

Draw the threads with which you have run the tucks one 
at a time. 

Arrange the wires on the back of the bonnet to form a pretty 
horse shoe, not too large, and tack the wires around the bottom 
edge of the back. 

Sew the wires to the frame, short stitch on top; hide the stitch 
on top. 

You will now have a two and a half inch ruffle at the back 
and a long ruffle in front. 

The front ruffle is to be used for a puffed brim. 

Run a row of gathers in your long ruffle so that it will come 
around the edge of the brim, using this edge for a guide. 

Push this gathering string back until it touches the top wire 
of your horse shoe. 

This will form a puff which is widest on top. 

Sew around short stitch on top. 

Form as many of these pufifs as your material will allow, 
using the front edge of the brim each time for a guide. 

Leave enough of your material to turn under for a brim 
facing. 

Gather and sew in the brim facing, long stitch inside. 

Begin at the top of your two and a half inch ruffle at the 
back, and lay small pleats one over the other, as if you were plait- 
ing hair. 

Cut ofif what material you do not need. 

Turn under the sides and back and sew long stitch inside. 

Line the bonnet. 

To Make a Lace Bonnet, Toque Shape 

Wind the outside wire of your wire frame with either velvet 
or satin, being careful to hide all raw edges. 

30 



Take lace three inches wide and box pleat it (three small pleats 
on a side). 

Tack this pleating to the covered wire. 

Allowing the scalloped edge to extend beyond the edge. 

Tack the top edge of this pleating to the second wire, giving 
it a fluted look. 

Sew on a jet top crown, large enough to come a little over 
the second wire. 

To Put a Puff on the Edge of a Bonnet 

Cut a bias strip of your material wide enough to cover the 
brim and long enough to go twice around. 

Mark the front. 

Gather one side plain. 

Sew on the gathered side long and short stitches to the top. 

Turn over the brim and pleat (small pleats) to the inside 
brim. 

Puff it a little bit as you pleat. 

Sew long stitch inside. 

To Hem Velvet 

Turn in your velvet half an inch and cat stitch all along. 
On this kind of a hem the raw edge is always visible on the 
wrong side. 

To Make a Lace Wing 

Cut a wing from sheer lace or fancy net according to pattern. 

Wire this wing all the way around. 

Lap the wire two inches. 

Cut a bias strip of velvet one inch wide and long enough 
to go around the three longest sides of the wing. 

Lay this binding on, wrong side up. 

Sew long and short stitch. 

Turn it over the wire, turn in as for a hem and slip stitch 
so that no stitch is visible anywhere. 

See that you keep your binding of an even width on both 
sides of your wing. 

Form a pleat in the wire on the unbound edge, deep enough 
to bring the bound edges together and tack. 

To Hem Crepe or Silk Plain 

Turn in your material to form a hem on the right side. 

Slip stitch, allowing only a tiny stitch to come through on 
the wrong side. 

This hem is only used on material which is alike on both 
sides. 

31 



To Make a Binding Hem 

Turn in your material one inch, run a very small tuck. 
Turn over the tuck, turn in as for a hem and slip stitch so 
that no stitch is visible anywhere. 

To Make a Fancy Crepe Hem 

Turn in your material half an inch. 

Fold as if for a half inch hem. 

Fold back again and form like a French fold. 

Slip stitch, allowing tiny stitches to come through. 

To Hem a Crepe Veil 

Turn in one inch, run a very small tuck. 
Turn the tuck down. 

Form as for a French fold a hem not less than four Inches nor 
more than nine inches deep. 

Slip stitch, allowing tiny stitches to come through. 

To Make a Lace Aigrette 

Take lace at least four inches wide and a yard long. 

Mark the half with a pin. 

Turn in one raw edged end twice to form a pleat about half 
an inch deep. 

Make three more pleats one on top of the other and turn 
another pleat under. 

Make four pleats and one turn under until you get to the 
pin. 

Begin at the other end and pleat in the same manner. 

Hold your pleats tightly together and wrap. This will form 
a double aigrette. 

If your lace is not stiff enough to stand nicely, run small silk 
wires in here and there. 

To Put Net or Chiffon on a Wire Frame and 

Bead It 

Cut a straight piece of your material twice as wide as the 
widest part of your brim and four inches over and long enough 
to go three times around your outside brim wire. 

Join the seams and form a ring. 

Fold your strip for a two tuck ruche in the center. 

Gather over and over all the creases of the ruche together. 

Arrange, pin and sew this ruche to the outside brim wire. 

Your frame must not be bound or wound. 

Gather your material together at the top one-fourth of an 
inch above the crown wire. 

Draw to fit the crown wire and fasten securely at the back. 

32 



Begin at the back and at the second brim wire bring your 
needle up from the bottom. 

Put five beads on your needle, then stick through on the 
opposite side of the wire. 

Put five more beads on your needle and come up with slanting 
stitch. 

Put five more beads on your needle and go down with a slant- 
ing stitch. 

This will look like a beaded rope around both sides of the 
wire. 

Bead all of the wire except the head wire. 

A fancy jet crown should finish this hat. 

To Make Velvet Underneath Trimming 

Cut a bias strip of velvet five inches wide and as long as the 
width of your material will allow it to be. 

Hem all around, points and all. 

Cut off all the selvage before you hem. 

Form and wrap one pointed end four inches long. 

Sew on a buckle or button to hide where you just wrapped. 

At the other end form and wrap another pointed end four 
inches long. 

Sew on a buckle or button to hide the wrap. 

Rope twist the velvet between and tie a loose rope knot in 
the center. 

Sew underneath at the left side. 

A bunch of small flowers may be sewed on to look as if the 
knot held them. 

To Drape a Veil (Plain Drape) 

Make four small pleats and pin to the center of the front 
of your bonnet with one pin. 

Draping pins only must be used. 

Bring each pleat down to the sides of the bonnet and pin 
each pleat. 

Allow nothing but the head of the pin to show. 

Have both sides exactly alike. 

Find the center of the veil at the back. 

Pin this center to the back of the bonnet. 

Form small pleats at each side of this center pin, turning 
towards this pin. 

Put a pin in each pleat. 

To Form a Box Drape 

Make a wide box pleat, four pleats on a side, in the middle 
of your veil. 

Pin each cluster of pleats with one pin to the bonnet. 

33 



Arrange the box pleat on the back of the bonnet and put 
a pin in each cluster of pleats. 

Pleat what loose material you have at the front of the bonnet 
into a cluster of loose pleats, turning towards the front. 

Put a pin in the cluster. 

Have both sides exactly alike. 

More than one box pleat may be put on if desired. 

It is best to take a few lessons in draping, as this part of the 
trade must be seen to be understood. 

To Form a Finger Puff Drape 

Form six small pleats in the center of your veil. 

Pin this cluster to the front of the bonnet with one pin. 

Keep your pleats straight and pin another cluster around 
your middle finger. 

Form three finger puffs on each side of the center pin. 

Keep your pleats straight and pin a cluster to each side of the 
bottom of the bonnet. 

Form the back into flutes to look like a shell. 

Put a pin between each flute. 

Pull out the pleats in the puffs in front. 

To Drape a Veil Over the Face 

Arrange the same as for a plain drape. 

Allow enough veil to extend over the bonnet to cover the 
face. 

Form two finger puffs in front. 

The sides are pinned the same as the plain drape. 

Form the back material into small pleats and fold one pleat 
over the other the same as you would plait hair. 

Put one pin in the last pleat. 

Some Business Suggestions 

Buy small bills and often as you can pay for them rather 
than go into debt. The discounts make a nice profit. 

Be careful about wasting materials. Never let goods that 
will fade hang in the sunshine. Never sweep and dust without 
first covering all your goods. Faded and dirty goods are loss 
and will cut down your profits. Always be pleasant. Try to 
please your customers and invite them back. Always be honest 
and faithful. When asked if goods will fade, say, "Yes, everything 
will fade, get dirty and spoil if used." When you take an order 
for a hat, be sure and put on full measure and everything you 
agree to put on. 

Don't let them measure, and say there was short length 
put on; not as much as they paid for. 

This all helps to make a successful business. 

34 



To Make Wrapped Underneath Trimming 

Cut ribbon bias on one end. 

Form and wrap a pointed end four inches long. 

Wrap three small loops that will be one and one-fourth inches 
long after they are doubled. 

All loops are measured after they are doubled. 

Leave a three inch space. 

Wrap one two inch loop, one tiny half inch loop and another 
two inch loop. 

Leave a three inch space. 

Wrap three one and a quarter inch loops. 

Leave four inches of ribbon for another end and cut this 
end bias like the first end. 

Arrange and sew this trimming to the facing of your hat on 
the left side or right across the back, underneath. 

To Make Chiffon Underneath Trimming 

Cut a straight strip of chiffon nine inches wide and thirty- 
six inches long. 

Hem on the right side, plain crepe hem. 

Form a two and a half inch loop and wrap. 

Wrap three half inch loops. 

Leave a three inch space. 

Wrap one two inch loop, one half inch loop and another two 
inch loop. 

Leave a three inch space and wrap three half inch loops, and 
one five inch loop. 

Arrange this trimming underneath so that the long loop falls 
on the hair. 

To Sew a Silk Wire on the Edge of a Felt Hat 

Use silk thread the color of your wire. 
Begin at the back. 

Take a stitch in the wire (not over the wire) and a stitch in 
the felt and sew over and over. 

Do not let your stitches show any more than you can help. 
It requires a little tact to put these wires on nicely. 



To Sew a Silk Wire on a Felt Hat not on the 

Edge 

Use silk thread the color of your wire. 
Begin at the back. 

Slip stitch a long stitch in the wire and a short stitch in the 
felt. 

The stitches must not come through the felt. 

35 



To Put a Silk Wire on a Straw Hat 

Use silk thread the color of your hat and sew on the same as 
you do a covered wire. 

Most Popular Ruche 

The herring bone ruche is most durable, requiring more material 
than the boa pleated ruche. 

For a ruching around the crown eight yards are used, cut also 
in three strips of equal size, double these strips twice, which gives 
the firmness unlike the fan effect of the box pleating, then begin 
pleating by laying a pleat on either side, each one an equal distance 
from the other. 

It is most important that these pleats are perfectly regular 
both in the center and at either end. 

Tack as you go along, holding each one securely. 

Exquisite color combinations may be obtained in this ruching; 
particularly on the hats of delicate tints, the rainbow effect is 
most desirable, each pleating of different color, say light yellow, 
pink and blue or violet, pink and green are the favorite combina- 
tions for evening wear, with a paradise aigrette or ostrich tip 
trimming. 

In the new reds for the trimming of a suit hat, if it be either 
the dahlia or geranium reds, running in the several shades from 
light to dark, this ruching is very softening to the severe outlines 
of the very popular sailor hat. 

Combining of two colors, by running one color under the 
other, is very effective. A hat of moleskin gray having an under- 
brim and bandeau trimming of violet velvet had the two shades 
in the pleatings, the violet under the gray being very much admired. 

Bows 

The milliner who finds it difficult to produce pleasing bows 
should spend a great deal of time in practice making each form 
described many times and thereby acquire the knack. With- 
out this practice, no amount of instruction will enable one to 
produce a handsome or stylish bow. 

In trimming, the bow should be made last and always to fit 
the place for which it is intended. Soft and pliable ribbon will 
produce the most dazzling and beautiful effects. The stiff appear- 
ance imparted to the bow is obtained by tightly plaiting the ribbon 
at the bottom of the loop and wrapping several times with the 
thread and sewing at the edge of the ribbon only. The^ ends 
of the bow may be cut in various fanciful designs, bias or fringed. 
Hold the ribbon in the hand, plait it very closely and tightly, 
wrap several times with thread around the loop and sew fast at 
the edge to keep the thread from slipping. Never stick the needle 
through the ribbon, but sew at the edge. When as many loops 

36 



are made as desired, make the center by twisting the ribbon similar 
to a rope, draw it over the center of the bow tightly and fasten 
at the back. 

Bows 

All standing loops should be wired before you begin to form 
a bow. 

If the ribbon, or whatever material you are going to make 
your bow of, is very flimsy, all of it should be wired before you 
begin to form. 

To Wire Ribbon 

Use flat ribbon wire. 

Lay it along the center of your ribbon on the wrong side. 

Long and short stitch, long stitch on the wire. 

Cross from one side of the wire to the other as you make 
your stitches. 

Silk thread, the color of your ribbon, should always be used. 

The short stitches which come through on the right side 
should be very short indeed, not longer than your thread is thick. 

To Make Wrapped Trimming 

Form a loop, five inches long, after it is doubled. 

Make two pleats, turning to the right. 

Put a stitch through these pleats and wrap your thread tightly 
three times around where your pleats are. 

Tack but do not clip your thread. 

Lay this loop on your lap. 

Make two pleats turning to the right ten inches from where 
you wrapped. 

Double over and wrap again as close as you can to the other 
wrap. 

Tack again. 

Wrap five small loops three inches long after they are doubled. 

Sew the two long loops to the side crown wherever you want 
to trim the hat. 

Arrange and sew the five small loops around the standing 
loops to form a rosette. 

You cannot practice wrapped trimming too much, as it is used 
in a variety of ways on nearly all hats and bonnets. 

Any material may be wrapped. 

If your material is sheer, wrapping the thread around twice 
will be sufficient. 

To Make a Wrapped Alsatian Bow 

Form and wrap a loop four and a half inches long after it 
is doubled. 

Form and wrap two four inch loops. 

37 



Form and wrap another four and a half inch loop. 

Arrange your bow so that the two four inch loops will be 
on top. 

Twist a small piece of material around the center of your 
bow to form a tight knot. 

Tack the ends of this knot firmly underneath. 

The Rosette Bow 

Of No. 5 or 7 velvet ribbon is made of sixteen loops of equal 
length. The first eight run around in a circle and the other eight 
being filled in the center. No center is tied in this bow, only the 
lower loops are fastened to the hat, leaving the upper loops free 
to stand out and present a full rounded effect. 

To Make a Wrapped Butterfly Bow 

Cut one end of your ribbon bias. 

Form and wrap this bias end four and a half inches long. 

Form and wrap one two and three-fourth inch loop when 
doubled. 

Form and wrap a tiny one inch loop. 

Form and wrap another two and three-fourth inch loop. 

Cut off your ribbon four and a half inches from your last 
wrap and bias the end, the same as your first end. 

Be careful that you do not get an opposite bias. 

Arrange your bow so that the ends will stand and look like 
wings. 

Press the inside loops closely together. 

The central small loop will be the body of the butterfly. 

To Make a Wrapped Chiffon Rosette 

Cut a straight strip of chiffon nine inches wide and thirty- 
six inches long. 

Turn in the edges about one inch and crease, but do not hem. 

Fold your material into eighths. 

Mark each fold with a pin. 

Wrap where the pins are. 

This rosette should have eight even loops. 

Any sheer material may be made into a rosette in the same 
manner. 

Flower Bows 

They are made by clustering a number of short loops together 
and mounting them on silk wire. Draw the end of the ribbon 
down the wire so as to cover it, and then up another wire at the 
top of which other loops are clustered, and down the wire again, 
and so on until as many flowers are imitated as are desired. 

These bows are usually made of delicately colored No. 16 
or 22 ribbon, mixed with a green ribbon of the same width. 

38 



The Bonnet Bow 

It consists of two bias ends, three loops at the top one four 
inches long, one three inches long, one two inches long and two 
two inch loops at the bottom. 

Rufifled bows of silk ribbon are made by shirring one edge of 
the ribbon tightly, after which the ribbon is fashioned into a rosette. 

A diamond bow for the front of a large hat or toque consists 
of twelve loops. Make one five, one four and one three inch loop. 
This forms one-fourth of the bow. Now make one three, one 
four and one five inch loop. Then repeat as before. 

The Chrysanthemum Bow 

It is most frequently made of shaded ribbon in satin and is 
also made of velvet ribbon. Take two pieces of No. 12 or 16 
satin back velvet ribbon and wire at the edge with a satin covered 
brace wire the same color as the velvet ribbon. This is sewed 
on by a cross stitch made of floss of the same or of a contrasting 
shade. Plait each strip in fine plaits near the center, fasten them 
together by wrapping thread around and spread them apart until 
they are in the form of an X; cut off six strips of No. 40 or 60 
satin shaded ribbon, two strips eight inches long, two strips nine 
inches long and two strips ten inches long. Each end must first 
be fishtailed into five or six pointed ends cut into the ribbon two 
inches deep, and each point resembling the petal of the flower 
from which this bow takes its name. Plait them all in the center, 
placing the longer strips at the back. Now place these six strips 
at the center of the X and tie them into position very tightly 
with a satin ribbon and fishtail these ends in the same manner 
as those above described. 

The Water Wheel Bow 

It consists of ten loops of the same length, which makes a 
round bow. Wrap each loop separately with the thread. When 
the last two loops are drawn together, there will be a space about 
as large as a thimble; this can be drawn around the feathers or 
flowers that stand erect on the hat. A series of side crown bows 
should be made of three loops of the same length, without a center, 
and fastened to the side crown of the hat. After a sufficient num- 
ber of bows have been made, they should be attached to the hat, 
either six or eight being used for one hat and placed either tw^o or 
three inches apart, rrtidway in the center of the side crown. Twist 
a piece of straight ribbon very tight and commence with the first 
bow; roll the ribbon around the three loop bow, which has already 
been attached to the hat at the bottom of the bow, causing it to 
stand out from the side of the hat. Twist your ribbon and carry 
it on to the next bow, roll the ribbon around the bow as before 
and so on to the next until all the bows have been thus wrapped, 
and the end is carried to the first bow and hidden underneath the 
first roll. 

39 



The Alsatian Bow 

It consists of four or six loops of equal length; each loop is 
either four or six inches long, according to the place for which it 
is intended. 

The best effect is obtained by wiring the edge of the ribbon 
with a ribbon or bonnet wire, sewed on by hand or machine, and 
turned under in such a way that the wire is hidden. Commence 
by plaiting the ribbon in very small plaits; wrap with a thread and 
sew at the edge. For four inch loops, measure off eight inches; 
plait finely the same as before, being careful that the two edges 
of the ribbon are folded together and the plaits being on either 
side. Wrap the thread over this half of the loop and also over 
the first half, and sew at the edge. Measure off eight inches more 
and make this loop the same as before, continuing the same until 
the required number of loops are made. Twist the ribbon tightly; 
draw it through the center of the bow, being careful that the 
twist is wide enough to cover all the wrappings of the thread and 
fasten at the back. 

In attaching any bow to a hat or bonnet, never stick through 
the center of the bow, but sew it on securely at the side of the 
center twist. 

To Use Folds 

To use velvet or taffeta silk folds alternately with braid, 
hem one edge of fold instead of doubling it ; this gives a very pretty 
tailored effect, also is an excellent item on economy. 

To Make Rosettes 

Rosettes of velvet should be made on the bias, the ends of 
which are sewed together. Fold in the middle, shirr and draw 
as tightly as possible. Pull one side up to form the center and 
tack it very lightly to the lower portion of the rosette. Light 
material rosettes should be made on the straight, folded in the 
center, shirred and drawn tightly. The rosette should never be 
pulled around so that the upper edge would have the appearance 
of a spring of the coils of an old fashioned beehive, but the two 
sides should be drawn up to form the center. Rosettes of straight 
material should be a yard and a half long. 

Directions for Making Puff Rosettes 

Take a square of velvet, measuring either twelve inches or 
up to twenty inches square, rounding all four corners slightly. 
With No. 4 cotton thread, gather around edge, drawing edges 
to a small circle, fasten threads, and with three fingers draw velvet 
from center, taking only in four or five places that the rosette 

40 



may retain its well rounded appearance. This is especially pretty 
used in the light shades, as light blue, pink, corn color, lavender, 
and as trimmings in connection with grapes or roses for the large 
drooping brims. 

Tailored Rosettes 

For a tailored effect, plaited rosette is made as follows: 
For the foundation, take a round piece of buckram two inches 
in diameter, binding edge with a narrow strip of velvet. Cut 
two or more squares of velvet on the bias four and one-half inches 
in width, join together and plait around edge of buckram, filling 
in the center with another row of plaiting, finishing center with 
an ornament. 

To Make a Plain Rosette 

Cut a strip of material two inches wide and one and one- 
fourth yards long. 

Turn in the ends after you have doubled the strip. 

Gather close to the raw edge, fine gathers. 

Draw your thread tightly and tack. 

Roll a small portion and sew over and over. 

Keep on rolling and sewing until you have nothing left. 

To Make a Box Pleated Rosette 

Cut a strip of material three inches wide and a yard and a 
half long. 

Box pleat, four pleats on a side. 

Put a stitch into each cluster of pleats so that you can draw 
the stitch. 

Draw tightly and tack. 

Begin with the first box pleat you made and roll and make 
like a plain rosette. 

Pull apart so that you will have four box pleats around the 
edge and one in the center of your rosette. 

To Make a Rose Rosette 

Cut a strip of material three inches wide and a yard long. 

Double, turn in the ends and gather fine gathers. 

Do not draw your thread as tight as for a plain rosette. 

Skimp the gathers and form the same as you do for a plain 
rosette until you have a tight looking bud, then draw tightly and 
sew around the full part of the rose. 

To Make a Double Rosette 

Cut two strips of material of different colors three inches 
wide and twenty-seven inches long. 

Double over each strip and turn in the ends. 

41 



Lay one strip on top of the other and pleat all the way along. 

Stick a stitch into each pleat, but have your stitches so that 
they will draw. 

Draw tight and tack. 

Roll your rosette, the lightest color inside and make as you 
do a plain rosette. 

Pull the strips apart all the way round. 



To Make a Hollyhock Rosette 

Cut a strip of material four inches wide and twenty-four 
inches long. 

Double, turn in the ends and gather long and short. 

Cut a cover from velvet to fit a small flat button. 

Cover this button with the velvet. 

Draw your rosette gathering thread to fit this button and 
sew over and over. 

To Make Choux 

Cut a strip of material three inches wide and two yards long. 

Double, turn in the ends and gather, fine gathers. 

Draw tightly and tack. 

Cut a round piece of buckram the size of a silver dollar. 

Sew the raw edge of your rosette to the center of this buckram 
up and down stitch. 

Keep the circle in the center as small as possible. 

Keep the outside edges even. 

Open your turned in edge, slip stitch it around to hide all 
the raw edges visible. 

Pull up and pinch this rosette together at the top. 

To Make a Lace Jabot 

Take lace not less than four inches wide and half a yard 
long. 

Turn in the raw edged ends. 

Form four slanting pleats in one side, slanting up and pin. 

Form four slanting pleats on the other side, slanting down 
and pin. 

This should form a box pleat with slanting ends. 

A double or triple jabot requires more lace. 

To Make a Rose Quilling of Lace 

Take double edge lace two and a half inches wide. 
Form it into box pleats, six small pleats on a side. 
Tack the pleats in the center. 
Have the box pleats close together. 

42 



To Combine Colors 

1. Red paint or geranium lake and benzine will tint pink. 

2. White and yellow make straw color; white, blue and black 
make pearl gray; white, lake and vermilion make a flesh color; 
umber, white and Venetian make drab. 

3. Red and black make brown, lake and white make rose. 

4. Prussian blue will produce light blue, black paint makes 
a gray shade; burnt umber makes a tan. 

5. White and green make bright green ; purple and white make 
French white; light green and black make dark green; white and 
green make pea green; white and emerald green make a brilliant 
green; red and yellow make orange. 

6. White and brown make chestnut; white, blue and lake 
make purple, but purple lake may be bought, and if used will 
make lavender; white and carmine make pink; indigo and lamp- 
black make lead color; black and Venetian make chocolate. 

7. Yellow, white and a little Venetian make buff. The 
combinations given above are those most used by artists mixing 
colors, but manufacturers of the tube paints have placed on the 
market almost every shade and color you will need; nevertheless 
it is well to know how to produce them if called upon to do so. 
Naples yellow will give you the desired cream color, and if the 
butter shade is wanted, you should add a very little portion of 
the king's yellow. 

Tinting 

Milliners who experiment with the method of tinting here 
explained will find themselves prepared to accomplish results 
which would otherwise be impossible. No elaborate dyeing 
outfit is necessary. 

A pan or dish with a flat bottom is necessary to hold the 
liquid. The size depends upon the bulk of the articles to be 
tinted. The smaller the size of the receptacle the smaller the 
amount of supplies will be consumed. Buy from some art supply 
store small tubes of paint of the colors you desire. These and a 
supply of benzine make a complete equipment. 

Solid dark colors cannot be produced. Only the light shades 
and tints can be obtained. The material should always be white 
or cream. It is possible to refresh an article originally a light 
tint by dipping it into a new solution of the same tint. 

A word of caution. — Never have a light or fire in the room in 
which you are using- the solution, and do not strike a match anj'- 
where in the room, as benzine is highly inflammable. 

Select the colors desired and squeeze out of the tube a small 
amount of the paint. Pour in enough benzine to completely 
cover the article to be tinted. Stir until the paint is entirely dis- 
solved before putting the material into the solution. Add more 
paint if necessary to get the desired tint. Immerse the article to 
be tinted and shake in a draft until dry. 

43 



Feathers 

Tips, plumes or fancy feathers dipped in this solution will 
tint beautifully. 

Take them out quickly and wave them or beat them against 
the hand until dry. 

The liquid evaporates quickly, leaving the color fast and 
does not take the curl out of the feather. Soiled white, cream 
or light tinted feathers can be made as new ones by this method. 

Flowers and Foliage 

Flowers can be tinted in the same way. A deeper shade 
may be had by immersing to the edge of the petals the flower 
but half way in. This applies also to leaves. 

The tinted article will always be lighter than the liquid. 

The tinting of flowers should be done as soon as the liquid 
is prepared. If you should chance to have flowers in pink, you 
can make them lavender by dipping in purple lake and benzine. 
Light blue flowers may be turned to lavender by dipping in red 
paint and benzine. 

Veilings 

Veilings, crepes, light weight silk and laces are all tinted in 
the same way; that is, first immersed in the benzine and then 
shaken in the air. Shades can be matched in this way, and the 
process found a great convenience. 

When the velvets are tinted, they are removed from the 
benzine, which is allowed to drip from them and fanned in the 
air until dry. 

Combinations of Colors 

Pale blue combines with white, cream black, dark green, 
rose pink, golden and seal brown, gray, yellow, silver and gold. 
White combines with all colors with a very few exceptions, and 
black does the same. White and black, white and green, white 
and navy blue, white and yellow and white and gray being excep- 
tionally good. Black and light green, old rose, yellow and pink 
are good combinations. Pink combined with dark green, royal 
purple, gray, deep wine, boreal, navy blue and brown, produces 
very beautiful effects for carriage wear. Green combines with 
almost all colors, and is particularly effective with white, yellow, 
brown and old rose. Old rose combines splendidly with black, 
green and royal purple. Combinations that are fashionable are 
lavender and purple, lavender and black, navy blue and yellow, 
pink and gobelin blue, and tan and royal purple. Other com- 
binations are green, yellow and lavender; green, pale blue and 
old rose; black and orange; terra cotta and primrose; old rose and 
straw color; mountain purple and pink; tan, green and black; dark 

44 



and light green; green and brown, and brown with either straw, 
cream or tan. Gold, silver and copper combine with all colors, 
and their appearance is greatly enhanced by their use. 

White and Black 

Some understanding of the relative positions that are occupied 
by black and white is necessary, as a proper knowledge for the 
uses of which they are to be employed. Animals of the frigid 
zone are white, which led scientists to believe that white is a 
warm color. Dr. Franklin placed cloths on snow and the black 
sank the deepest, while the white was not at all affected by the 
rays of the sun. This is prima facie evidence that white should 
be worn in the summer, as the heat penetrates black to a greater 
extent. Also, the fact that white reflects the rays of the sun 
makes it desirable to wear white hats in the hottest months. It 
has also been discovered that white retains heat and black throws 
it off quite rapidly, but this is more applicable to the skin than it 
is to materials of these same colors. 

Colors 

It is well known that red and rose red cannot be used for 
the rosiest complexions, but dark red may be worn without deterio- 
rating from the beauty or brightening the color of the complexion. 
Green is good for a delicate complexion. Yellow imparts a shade 
of violet to the skin and commends itself to the brunette. Violet 
shades throw a greenish cast upon the face and for that reason 
are becoming to but very few. Orange is entirely too brilliant. 
White is best for summer use, while black alters the tones of other 
colors, which makes it best for ordinary purposes. By constantly 
looking at red, the shades grow dimmer, and the last of several 
hats tried on never appears as bright as the first one. If yellow 
is shown first, it changes almost all other colors. As black dimin- 
ishes the size, it is a desirable hat to place upon a woman with a 
large face. A hat of almost any proportion or size may thus 
be used, which for all intents and purposes will appear much 
smaller. 

Colors for a Brunette 

Yellow is the very best shade that a brunette can wear. Light 
shades of blue, pink and maroon are also becoming. If the brunette 
be of gipsy type with color bright red looks well. Yellow, brown 
or navy blue are th6 best colors for a street gown. If a gown of 
brown or blue is worn, a veil to match would look suitable. Other- 
wise wear a black veil of plain mesh. 

Rules for the Blonde Woman 

The word "complexion" itself means complex or composed 
of many elements. In referring to a complexion, what is meant 

45 



generally is the skin only. The skin's texture, coloring and 
firmness are noted in appraising a complexion. 

But, in reality, the color of the hair and of the eyes must also 
be accounted for in estimating any complexion. It is indeed 
a complex matter, depending on many elements for perfection. 

A fair woman, with a Saxon type of coloring, is descended 
from the old North races, the Angles, Scandinavians or Saxons 
predominating in her ancestry. 

As a rule, her nature is less passionate than that of the dark 
haired people. She is less romantic and less highly colored in 
nature as in complexion, and she seldom runs to absurd extremes. 

The planet said to rule fair people is Venus, once supposed 
to bestow a liking for blue in all its shades on those born under 
its influence. 

But, excepting when the fair woman is in her first youth and 
has a fine skin, she should not wear too much pale blue. 

If she does, it will emphasize the fading hues of her once fair 
skin and give her a greenish look by bringing out the latent yellows 
in it, for blue and yellow when mixed give the impression of 
green. 

But the blonde may wear dark blues or purples with good 
effect, especially if her eyes are also blue. Dark blue will enhance 
the blue of the eyes, whereas pale blue would cause them to look 
faded. 

If the blonde's eyes are gray, then any shade of gray can 
be worn, and this color will harmonize well with fair hair. 

In the street, a coat or gown the color of the hair is always 
in good taste; therefore, a light brown or fawn coat will look well 
on a fair woman. 

At nearer view in the home where the blonde is in close con- 
tact with her companions, any color matching the hue of the eyes 
will be striking and in good taste. Under strong gaslight, how- 
ever, or in electric glare, it is the color of skin and hair again, 
rather than of eyes, that must be studied in gown choosing. 

If a blonde's eyes are blue-gray, then dark blue will bring 
out the hue of Venus and overpower the gray-blue; while, in like 
manner, a gray note in the dress will put out the blue color and 
make the eyes look gray. They will look light gray or drak gray 
according to the color of the dress. 

Occasionally, by a cross current of Southern blood in the 
ancestry, a blonde woman with fair or golden hair and pale skin 
will have dark eyes. This is a beautiful contrast. When this is 
so, a black gown will emphasize the contrast, bringing out the 
colors of hair and eyes both. If the cheeks of a blonde woman 
are rose flushed, she may wear pink with advantage. 

Recipes 

The best polish for black, dark or light straw hats, with the 
exception of white, is made by dissolving two ounces of gum shellac 
in one pint of alcohol. 

46 



A polish for white or colored straw hats : 

Put one ounce of either brown or white shellac in one quart 
of wood alcohol and let it dissolve. Brush the hat thoroughly 
and apply the above solution with a small stiff brush. 

For renewing dark colored chips, use vaseline. This brightens 
them up, toughens the straw, renders them pliable, and they 
are not so easily broken by handling. 

Liquid polish for leghorns : 

One ounce of alcohol, one ounce of Venice resin. The polish 
should be about as thick as cream and applied with a soft brush. 

Clean white leghorn hats with alcohol. Apply with a sponge 
or small clean rag. 

For polishing black hats or changing light colored soft braids 
to black, dissolve four ounces of shellac in alcohol. Enough 
alcohol should be used to merely cover the shellac. Shake fre- 
quently. When this is dissolved and no sediment remains at the 
bottom, put in a piece of camphor half as large as a hen's egg and 
in four hours stir in half an ounce of lampblack. If this is too 
thick, thin it with alcohol. Apply with a soft bristle brush. The 
hat should be thoroughly cleaned before using the above mixture. 

To raise the nap of a beaver hat, take a small switch and 
beat it until the fur is fully aroused. 

To remove paint from silk goods, saturate the goods with 
equal parts of turpentine and ammonia, then rub in soap suds 
and let dry between blotting paper under a heavy weight. 

Miscellaneous 

To clean tarnished gold and silver, pins, lace or cloth: 

Dampen a tooth brush, dip it in sand and scour until the 
tarnish is rubbed off and the pin becomes bright. Pumice stone 
is better, but sand is cheaper, and answers the purpose very well. 

To clean gold, silver or copper crowns or lace: 

Wash them with rose benzine or strong vinegar mixed with 
salt. 

By using the following preparation for cleaning kid gloves, 
ribbons and laces, you can keep them in the pink of perfection: 

Two quarts of deodorized benzine, two drams of sulphur 
ether, two drams of chloroform and four drams of alcohol. Pour 
the fluid in a bowl and wash as if in water; rinse in a fresh supply. 

To Remove Axle Grease Stain 

On the wrong side of the goods rub into the spot as much 
powdered French chalk as it will hold. Leave all night. Then lay 
soft blotting paper over the chalk and press with a warm iron. 
Brush out the chalk and the spot should have disappeared. If 
a trace remains on the right side of the goods, sponge with house- 
hold ammonia. 

47 



Gold and Silver Trimmings 

Gold and silver trimmings are cleaned with alcohol and 
afterwards burnished with chamois. 

To Clean Braids 

Delicate silk braids must be cleaned in gasolene. Hair and 
tuscan braids can be cleaned with Ivory soap and water only, 
and stains taken out with oxalic acid. 

Braids of dark fancy straws frequently have the high point 
of the braid touched up with gold or silver. For this purpose the 
ready prepared gilt, which can be purchased in any drug store, 
should be used. 

To smooth flatirons: The constant use of flatirons over damp 
cloths and sticky finished hat brims has a tendency to roughen 
and rust them. To overcome this and smooth them, run your 
iron over salt or parafhne. 

Colors that have been destroyed by stains can be restored by 
the use of sal-volatile or hartshorn. 

Cleaning Lace Goods 

Fold the laces, stretch them carefully in any kind of muslin 
cloth, which you baste all around to prevent the laces from getting 
twisted or mixed up. They are thus to be dipped in beer and left to 
soak some little while, after which, when they will be found half 
dry, they must be ironed between muslin cloths, so that the iron 
does not give them a glossy look, which would be the case if it 
came in contact with the lace. The beer will prove a sufficient 
sizing. 

For washing fine laces, allow the articles to lie in borax water 
for twenty-four hours, then squeeze (not rub) through several 
waters. 

To Clean White Lace 

Wind the lace about a glass bottle and soak it in warm soap 
suds made from castile coap. Squeeze the suds out and immerse 
in another. Rinse in warm water. The lace may be ironed 
under a cloth or pinned to a sheet to dry. 

Lace may also be cleaned by laying it on a paper, covering 
it with magnesia, and this with another paper, and allowing it 
to remain for several days. It should be placed under a heavy 
pressure. When the powder is shaken out, it will remove the 
dirt. 

To Dye Lace 

Soiled lace can be dry dyed by using yellow ocher and rice 
flour, or any other white powder with the yellow. 

Place the lace and powder in a box and shake thoroughly. 

After the dust has settled in the box, take lace out and dust 
it well. White braids and hats can be treated in the same way. 

48 



Silk Laces 

Silk laces and others that will not stand washing may be 
cleaned in this way. They must be pulled into shape while dry- 
ing in the open air, and afterwards pressed under muslin on the 
wrong side. 

Washable Laces 

Washable laces are put in good suds of Ivory soap in a glass 
jar, and shaken frequently, changing the water several times; 
finally rinse and pin out carefully right side up on a very thickly 
covered board. When nearly dry, unpin and turn and press 
out the design with the round end of an orange stick or ivory 
penholder. 

If the lace needs a little stiffening, dissolve a little gum arabic 
and mix with the rinsing water. If desired ecru, rinse in tea or 
coffee according to the shade wanted, and in saffron tea for lemon 
shade. For other shades and colors. Diamond dyes are the best. 

To Steam Velvet 

Fold a cloth into three or four thicknesses. 
Wet it thoroughly. 

Lay it on the back of your range where it is not too hot. 
Lay your velvet on this cloth right side up. 
Brush the nap the right way with a coarse brush while the 
steam is coming through it. 

To Bleach a Leghorn Hat 

Put a lump of sulphur on an old tin pie plate. 

Drive an old broomstick into the ground in your yard. 

Fasten your hat to the top of the broomstick so that it will 
not fall off. 

Place the sulphur under the hat and light it. The sulphur 
plate must be on the ground. 

Turn a clean flour barrel over all. 

See that your broomstick is not too long, as it will hold up 
the barrel from the ground if it is. 

To Press Ribbon that has been Used 

Lay your ribbon between layers of wet tissue paper and 
press with a warm iron until your tissue paper is perfectly dry. 

Do not have your iron too hot. 

To stiffen your ribbon slightly, wet the tissue paper with 
water into which you have put a little vinegar and sugar. 

To Wash Silk Ribbon 

Take a pint of lukewarm water, and put a tablespoonful 
of ammonia and a tablespoonful of white soft soap into it. 

49 



Put ribbon into this and let it soak about ten minutes. 

Rub with the hands only. 

Rinse several times with clear warm water. 

Hang it in a shady place to dry. 

Press the same as ribbon that has been used. 

Treating Crepe 

Crepe can be refinished, but good quality only. Faded and 
shabby crepe can be restored to its original appearance and fresh- 
ness, and one process imparts two additional qualities to it, by 
removing the peculiar crepe odor, so disagreeable to many and 
also making it impervious to dampness. It will be refinished in 
two forms only, by the yard and in veils. The cost is about one 
dollar per square yard. 

Steaming Crepe 

To redress crepe, steam it over a hot iron as you would velvet 
or silk, being careful to pull it evenly in all directions. 

To remove stains from silk crepes or grenadines, boil a hand- 
ful of fig leaves in a quart of water until it is reduced to one pint. 
Rub the stains with a sponge dipped into this liquid. 

To Steam Crepe 

Get all the dust and dirt out first. 

Lay it over any vessel containing boiling water and let steam 
go nicely through it. 

To Mirroir Velvet 

Pin your velvet to an ironing board so that it will be perfectly 
smooth, right side up. 

Wet a cloth and lay it over your velvet. 

Take a hot iron and run it hastily over your wet cloth, but 
do not wrinkle this wet cloth in any way. 

Remove your cloth rapidly and press your velvet with a 
warm iron, making the nap go the right way. 

Plush Goods 

To wash silk plush caps, bands for hats and plush coats, 
first get all the dust out of it with a switch. Spread it on a board 
or block and sponge every inch of it with warm rainwater and 
a little ammonia. Take a dry sponge and rub it until it is per- 
fectly dry and brush with a soft brush. The result will surprise 
you,} for the plush will look like new. Don't be afraid to try it, 
as it has been tested. 

50 



Coffee Stains 

Coffee stains, even when there is cream in the coffee, can 
be removed from the most delicate silk or woolen fabrics by brush- 
ing the spots with pure glycerin. Rinse in lukewarm water and 
press on the wrong side until quite dry. The glycerin absorbs 
both the coloring matter and the grease. 

To Clean Wings 

Wings, birds and breasts can be cleaned with corn meal, but 
must be very carefully handled or the feathers will clog, gasolene 
is good in some cases, but as this will dissolve glue, very few "made" 
pieces can be treated in this way. 

Cleaning Hats 

For cleaning white Milan straws, wash them thoroughly 
with warm water and soap, using more lather than water. Rinse 
well, rub over the hat lemon juice and set it in the sun to dry. 
Press into the original shape by ironing it beneath a damp white 
cloth. As these hats are easily scorched, great care should be 
taken not to have the iron too hot. 

For cleaning white or colored felts, rub them well with white 
corn meal. Dust the white felt with magnesia or powdered starch. 

Use lac sulphuris for powdering white straw and leghorns. 
Rub on with a cloth and remove with a stiff brush. 

To color white straw a rich golden yellow, immerse the hat 
for a few moments in a strong solution of soda and water; shake 
and press until dry. 

To revarnish black straw hats, cut up some black sealing 
wax, pour on enough methylated spirit to dissolve it; mix well 
and apply with a stiff brush. 

The following is a very fair bleach for straws and leghorns; 
but while it is successfully used on some hats, it fails to bleach 
others: One-half ounce salts of sorrel, one-fourth ounce of sugar 
of lead, one grain salts of tartar, dissolve in four quarts of water 
and apply with a brush or cloth and dry in the sun. 

A method of bleaching which has been long and successfully 
used as follows: Prepare a wooden box with a tight cover and 
have a rack made of strips crossing the box about fifteen or eighteen 
inches from the bottom. Supports or upright pegs should be 
used on which to place the hats to hold the brims above the strips. 
Wash the straw with clean soap suds, rinse and dry. Place the 
hat in the box over the fumes of brimstone, which is caused to 
smoke by placing a hot iron block in the center of the sulphur. 
Cover then with a thin layer of damp corn meal. Put cover 
on tight and leave until bleached. Place each hat on the block 
or ironing board, cover with a white cloth and press with a hot 
iron. 

51 



Steaming Hats, etc. 

Steam will do much in shaping over hats, and it will also 
restore the bright clean look which has been destroyed by dust. 

Lay a wet cloth on a hot iron, and hold the hat down over 
the steam, and then take your hand and press the hat into shape. 
It dries immediately, and a great deal can be done with a little 
practice. 

Flowers and foliage can be freshened, also, by shaking over 
the steam and laying the leaves on the cloth, and with the fingers 
smooth them out. 

To Clean a White Felt Hat 

Cover a soiled white felt hat with flour and let it remain 
in that condition over night. Unless the case is an extreme one, 
the grime will go with the flour when it is brushed off the next 
morning. 

Cleaning a White Velours Hat 

Make a mixture of French chalk and powdered magnesia and 
rub well into the felt. Put the hat away for several days in a 
dark place, and then brush it thoroughly. If the hat is not per- 
fectly clean, repeat the process. 

To Renovate Hats 

White hats may be stained to an attractive yellow by immersing 
in a strong solution of soda and water for a few moments. Wipe 
the hat and press under cloth till dry. 

Leghorn hats may be cleaned with alcohol. Apply with a 
soft rag. 

To Press Hats 

If a bowl or mushroom is desired, the hat must be held up 
and a bit of the brim pressed at a time till all is done; in a bowl 
shape the movement is sideways from the crown outward, but 
in a flat mushroom the brim is pressed with point of iron towards 
the crown. 

To Freshen Black Moire Ribbon 

Brush the ribbon thoroughly and then sponge it with a solu- 
tion made of a quart of coffee and a teaspoonful of ammonia. 
Roll the ribbon over a bottle, and, while still damp, press it on 
the wrong side with a hot iron over a white muslin cloth. 

52 



To Whiten Feathers 

To render feathers white, immerse them for a short time in 
naphtha or benzine. Rinse in a second dish of the same and dry 
in the open air. Then bleach by exposing in a box to the vapor 
of burning sulphur in a moist atmosphere. 

To Clean White Plume 

Coil the feather so as to get it within a half gallon glass jar. 
Pour in a quart of gasolene, screw on the cover and shake gently 
back and forth about a dozen times. Take out the feather, shake 
well and put in an airy place to dispel the smell of gasolene. This 
process will not take the curl out of the feather. To curl the 
feather draw each strand of the feather gently across a knife. 

White and Light Colored Feathers 

White and light colored ostrich feathers and aigrettes can 
be cleaned in gasolene, as also Paradise plumes, and when clean, 
may be given a second bath with a little tube oil color mixed 
to tint them to any desired shade; or the ends only may be tinted 
or shaded. Hang in the air to dry, and remember when using 
gasolene to have no lighted fire or gas anywhere near. When 
perfectly dry, they can be curled as desired. 

If white feathers are very dirty, Ivory soap should be shredded 
and dissolved in a little hot water and the suds well mixed with 
the gasolene. In this case it is best to leave the feathers in the 
bath a day or so, shaking thoroughly at intervals, and lastly 
rinsing in clean gasolene. 

The Art of Keeping Clothes Clean 

The reign of the lingerie waist, too fragile and filmy to stand 
frequent incursions to the wash tub, lends value to the art of 
taking out a spot here and there. A Parisian who makes a science 
of keeping her belongings in order pounces upon a garment having 
a defacing spot the instant it is taken off and goes at it with a 
sponge and soapy water. She first wads up a bath towel and slips 
it under the spot, holding it in the hand as you would a darning 
gourd, and then applies the wet sponge or piece of soapy flannel 
in a succession of dabs. Afterward it is "dabbed" partly dry 
with a dry towel. With the wad of toweling under, the water 
does not spread over the stuff, but soaks into the towel instead. 
The collars of lace blouses can be cleaned quickly in this way and 
the lace yokes of frocks that are not themselves of the washing 
order. With the useful wad, the water will not touch the most 
delicate silk or cloth. 

Not everybody knows that chiffon washes, and still fewer 
how splendidly it dyes. This same Parisian had a collection of 

53 



little dye bags, which are as yet unfortunately only to be bought 
in Europe, and which are prepared for just such uses. For faded 
chiffons, these are put in the rinsing water and the tiniest little 
squeeze will restore them to the old depth of color. Boas of 
chiffon and also those of marabout and coque feathers can be 
done in this way. 

First they should be washed in a lather. They will come 
out bedraggled and unpromising, but soon will shake dry in the 
wind or over a gentle warmth. They come out beautifully fluffy 
and clean. Tepid water should be used, and drying generally 
is successful by hanging in the air. 



54 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 



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LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 



014 080 220 7 



HoUinger Corp. 
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